Yellowstone National Park

I'll pick up the narrative of our Wild America adventure this past April at Yellowstone National Park. From the Cascades of Washington we birded, drove, cursed, cheered, drank beer and talked about women to the west side of the park. If you care to know more details of the few days leading up, check out Tim's blog in particular his post Sound of the Sage. If not, continue reading here.

The plan was simple, spend half a day doing obligatory visit of the hot springs and old faithful, then spend two days in the fabled Lamar Valley where wolf, bison and grizzly roam!

So we set off. Bison on road? Check! Old Faithful? Check! Hippies singing to the geyser? Check! Elk? Check! Mountain Goat? Check! Clark's Nutcracker? Check! As the day drew to a close we had made it to Mammoth junction. Earlier in the evening we somehow spotted a Grizzly exactly 5.12 kms away. Not really, but somehow Tim saw a spec literally across the whole park and we scoped it at 60X zoom to determine it was a Grizzly. However this would not suffice. We need a real look. That evening the plan was set for the Lamar Valley in the morning.

Wolf Watchers

Dawn came early and we packed up and headed out. It wasn't long before we had them. High on a ridge a mum Grizzly with her cub were rummaging in the earth. Incredible! We scoped them for a while, just the two of us and the Grizzlies, without any other humans in sight. This is the way to do it I said. Not In the Lamar with 100 people, most of them nincompoops from the city, who inevitably utter at some point something horribly stupid and wrong concerning nature and wildlife. Grizzlies? Check! On to the valley. As we get there we know something's up. People are lined up along the road scoping the valley with a collection of Leica, Zeiss and Swarovski scopes and bins worth more then I've earned in my whole life! Apparently birders aren't the only ones to buy ridiculously expensive optics, so do wolf watchers! A strange breed of human, the wolf watcher comes to Yellowstone and follows the wolf packs around, sometimes for months, giving them names and talking as if they were their pets. Nevertheless they had wolves. A pack had just made a kill and were still frolicking near the river. We spent the next 2 hours watching wolves and talking to the folks until at one point we were alone. Sitting in a nice grassy spot slightly above the valley we cracked open some Pako's IPA and talked of life, love, ambition, friendship and the beauty and inspiration of the wild creatures and places. As the day was coming to a close ,we got a close up view of a young wolf prowling the valley. A mighty grand adventure indeed!

Old Faithful blowing off some steam

Lamar Valley

A lone wolf

Wings on the Water

When a birder is asked about their favorite bird, the typical response usually follows as, "I don't have one/I have many favorites/it would be impossible to single one out from the many beautiful and amazing ones that I have seen". A perfect answer, and if you had asked me that question I would have said something very similar....... that is until February 14, 2012. Even as of 8:30 that morning, I still would have said the same thing. Four hours later, I was singing a different tune. Here is a tale from the southern oceans off the coast of New Zealand and of how I came to have a favorite bird.

Kaikoura is situated off the east coast of the south island of New Zealand. From here it is only a 15 minute boat ride into the Pacific Ocean to the edge of the continental shelf. As the underwater terrain plunges into the dark abyss, the water teems with life as nutrient-rich cold water is brought to the surface to mix with warm water. Plankton flourishes and with it, the rest of the marine food chain, including our feathered friends. Fourteen different species of albatross occur in these waters throughout different parts of the year, as well as a host of petrels, shearwaters and other seabirds. With its incredible diversity and accessibility, Kaikoura is dubbed the 'Albatross and Seabird Capital of the World.' It is also the reason three road-weary friends found themselves in this small coastal community halfway across the world from their home.

Nicole, Francois, and I were 13 days into a 24-day worldwind road trip of New Zealand. With the North Island traversed, we were starting our South Island tour with a bang - a pelagic bird trip with Albatross Encounters! Our excitement was running high as we prepared to head out to the shelf edge, 7 eager souls set on tubenose glory.

With the mountains fading behind and the ocean rushing up to meet us, I took a deep breath and soaked it all in. The sun piercing the grey clouds in small rays, the smell of salt in the air, and the lapping of the water on the hull. It was perfect. 

Kaikoura Mountains from the boat

Within minutes, Cape Petrel appeared. These black and white beauties roam all the oceans of the southern hemisphere, and would be our constant on this trip.  While still trying to process these new life birds, it happened. Looking behind the boat, there it was. With a fourteen foot wingspan and a penchant for frozen fish liver, it was on to us like a Texan at a steak buffet. The Wandering Albatross. Quite honestly, it took my breath away. When you're younger, and reading about birds from far off places, you may picture them in your head, but you never really appreciating that you may see they in real life. Yet there we were. Me, enraptured and elated, and the bird, elegant, curious, and hauntingly beautiful.  

Gibson's Albatross

Cape Petrel

As the trip progressed, the action kept coming. Not to be outdone by their giant cousin, the other tubenoses made quite the spectacle. Buller's Shearwater, Hutton's Shearwater... then Salvin's Albatross, White-capped Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross, and Buller's Albatross! For those who bird with me and know my sayings, this was a 'Holy S@!*' moment. And it continued, White-chinned Petrel, Westland Petrel, Northern Giant Petrel and Flesh-footed Shearwater. The southern seas were simply teeming with birdlife.

Northern Giant-Petrel

Buller's Shearwater

Salvin's Albatross

White-chinned Petrel

Shuffling and fighting

Our friends following the boat

Huge wingspan

At the center of it all was the Wandering (Gibson's) Albatross. One in particular stole the show. A female, banded on the Chatham Islands 800 km away, was as interested in us as we were her. Staring up at us with those eyes I could not help but be moved beyond words. I felt an almost personal connection, something I had never experienced before with an individual bird. I later got the story on this particular bird which made things feel even more special. A year ago, the boat crew had found her in the water struggling. She was entwined in fishing line and exhausted. Springing into action, they grabbed her and went to work, eventually working her free. Now she plys the ocean on those giant wings, soaring effortlessly, a captain of her domain.

Captain of her domain!

With the trip coming to an end, and the choppy waters taking their told on even the most sea-worthy of us, we headed toward shore. The birds had stayed with us most of the ride but stopped at the unseen barrier of the continental shelf as we headed back. 

Chasing after the boat

Stopped at the continental shelf

When will I have this experience again I thought. As always, I turned to my friends and remarked, "I'm doing this again next time I'm back!" With that said, we had one last bit of excitement. In the nearshore waters, Hector's Dolphin, one of the rarest cetaceans in the world, checked out our boat. These tiny dolphins with their little round fins capped off the trip in style.

Safely on land, and sipping a cup of hot chocolate (it was Valetine's Day after all), we tried to digest the spectacle we had witnessed. Most people aren't fortunate to see a single albatross in their life. We had been treated to six different species in one 3-hour boat ride! Thinking about it now as I write this story, I'm not sure it dawned on me then that I now had a favorite bird, but I did know that I had been profoundly moved by these creatures. Nevertheless, it had happened. I finally had a favorite bird, the Wandering Albatross!